All sorts and conditions

This post is actually from yesterday (Friday) but techno-challenged me couldn't figure out how to upload it properly until just now, so this is already old news...

Honestly, I don’t think of myself as a “people person,” but somehow I seem to have made connection with some very interesting people in my first days here.
Last night for dinner, I didn’t want to have to take a taxi, and really didn’t want to go someplace fancy, so I decided to try the little restaurant right next to the hotel. I knew nothing about it except that it was right next to the hotel, so I was taking a bit of a chance,but I did like the look of the place, especially the fact that there was a second floor patio that looked out onto the beach. I wanted to try more of a local than a tourist place – the better to practice my Spanish. Although there were a couple of people in the bar area downstairs, there was absolutely nobody upstairs. But there was a perfect breeze, and the roof overhead was thatched with palm, so I decided to stay.

The waitress followed me right up with a menu and I ordered a Cuba Libre. I don’t know what it is about those drinks, I can never get them to taste as good as they do down here. Three ingredients: Rum, Coca Cola, Lime juice – what’s so difficult about that? But I am absolutely unable to reproduce them in New Jersey. I asked the waitress what I should order – and she promptly sat down, shook my hand, and introduced herself. All of a sudden I’m in a sort of a tropical Mel’s Diner, and being waited on by Flo, minus the big hair and theSouthern accent.

I ordered shrimp cocktail – how could I resist at 150 pesos, about $4.50. I was surprised that it took so long to arrive at my table, until I received it and realized that the shrimp were just peeled, deveined and cooked right then and there. Not sitting in a bag or a plastic container in the fridge. I took this as a good sign. My waitress, Teresa, sat down next to me while I ate—not a problem since I was the only person in the place. Plus, she explained to me that she was not just the waitress, but the cook also. How’s that for multitasking? She told me she works six days a week at her job, and it’s obviously hard work. I told her I wanted to try a typical dish that she wanted to make. I knew her suggestion was a good onewhen she did not recommend the most expensive item on the menu.

Chuleta Criolla turned out to be a pork chop, but cut in large chunks, and cooked in a sauce with garlic, onions, sweet peppers, white wine, tomato and many herbs and spices. It was not hot, but very flavorful and interesting. Served with the ubiquitous white rice and beans, which they call habichuelas – something like Mexican refried beans, but soupier and with more flavor.

The whole time I was eating Teresa was telling me about her family, her love for the city of Puerto Plata, her ex-boyfriend (the cad!) and her dream for the future of owning her own restaurant. And ofcourse I told her about my family and my work. She was so impressed and interested. I really felt that I had made a great local connection. Since they didn’t serve desserts there, I settled for another Cuba Libre.

This morning, I took breakfast in the comedor in the courtyard of the hotel. As I seated myself at the table, I noticed an English language for Spanish speakers textbook on the adjacent table. Naturally I inquired whose it belonged to, and it turned out to be owned by the young guy who was the overnight clerk. He was Haitian (there are many of them in the DR. They come for the same reason that Dominicans and Mexicans come to the US – more economic opportunity). He had the unlikely name of Welcome Volner.

I told him – half in jest -- that Americans love nicknames, and I began calling him ‘Will.” He didn’t seem to object, and told me about his studies (he also speaks French, and Creole in addition to Spanish and English.) I was stunned when he told me that he was 29 years old – he looked at least ten years younger to me. I helped him practice his English, which I really enjoyed. It reminded me of how much of a struggle it is to learn a new language, but also how much of an excitement and a joy. He told me he loves learning English.

Later in the morning, I walked to the center of town, which was not as far as I thought it would be. I walked along the malecon enjoying the sounds and smells of the sea , but not the sensation of trying to walk carefully so as to avoid the rotten fruit that littered the sidewalk . Evidently there are some kind of tropical fruit that grown in abundance along the sea, and they drop on the sidewalk making a mess everywhere. I forgot to ask what they were, but I was guessing that they were small mangoes, though it’s hard to tell when something is black and squishy underfoot.

I was almost to the very center of town when I noticed, about a block away, the local Episcopal Church. Of course I had to investigate, and so I took a detour and turned to my right. The building was very well kept, and next door was a pre-school of some kind. Unfortunately, a guy hanging around the street corner noticed me looking around, and took it upon himself to ‘help’ me. He claimed to know the priest, although he was not a member of the church. So we walked around the block while he asked around if anyone knew where the priest was or where he lived. I should have taken this to be not such a good sign. Though he finally was able to get me the priest’s telephone number and ascertain that the rector was in Santo Domingofor theday, I should have taken it for another not-so-good sign that next he was offering to show me the sights – the cathedral was a couple of blocks away, as were a couple of museums and Victorian houses.

BTW, his name was Jesús. Theological reflection here about seeking and serving Jesus Christ in all people – reminder of the baptismal covenant. Even when, as Mother Theresa once said, he is in “distressing disguise.” Even, I suppose, when he opts to disguise himself as a really annoying person you can’t shake.

I quickly developed an interest in visiting a very high-end looking souvenir store across the street. I knew that Jesus –sorry Jesús – would not be welcome in there, so I decided to check out the gold jewelry that was on sale. Like as if I would be dumb enough to spend all my money on the first day.

Anyway, when I left, he was right there, so I ducked into a nearby bar that also happened to be the neighborhood internet café, from where I intended to send this update. Unfortunately, the lone computer was occupied, so I sat down at the bar. Then I began to wonder: What does one order at a bar at 10 in the morning? I was grateful that I remembered theword for soft drink, which is refresco. I should have known by then that Jesus – sorry Jesús – would not be deterred by a little obstaclelike a bar. Finally, after he told me about his hungry children, I paid him to go away with a bribe of 100 pesos,which is the equivalent of approximately $2.85.

More theological reflection here about paying off Jesus with a small bribe. Isn’t that what so many try to do with a little $ in the collection plate from time to time?The bar, BTW, was a ‘historical site’ – the oldest hotel in Puerto Plata. Not difficult to believe from the dilapidated appearance. Hotel Castillo upstairs, Sam’s Bar downstairs, with maps on the wall, flags on the ceiling, and a generally decrepit atmosphere. Evidently it is the hangout for American expats, as both of the people I met that morning were Americans living in Puerto Plata. Joanne was originally from Pennsylvania, and lived in the back room of the hotel. Her friend, whose name I didn’t catch, was originally from Woodbury, NJ, but had not lived in the US in over fifty years. He also had the oddest looking beard I have ever seen in my life. If I didn’t know better I would have thought that it was theatre make-up – a fake-looking blue-black nest of curls that looked as if it had been glued onto his face with spirit gum. Both of them looked as dilapidated as the Hotel Castillo itself. For some reason it made me think of a dissipated Hemingway haunting a bar in Old Havana.

Interesting people: Teresa, Welcome, Jesús, Joanne, the guy with the beard. Oh, and Jesus.